In Spain, Christmas is inconceivable without turrón and marzipan. But today, these two typical sweets made from sugar and almonds are enjoyed all year round. We discover what makes them unique.
Star Spanish sweets made with almonds and sugar, turrón and marzipan are traditionally eaten around Christmas, but today they are increasingly eaten all year round. These specialties, which are the fruit of secular traditions, are experiencing a new lease of life by becoming gastronomic products.
The largest production in the world of this nougat from Spain called turrón is in the south-east of Spain. This is where we find the Protected Geographical Indications (PGI) of Turrón de Jijona and Alicante. Two products that you have to know how to differentiate. “The one from Alicante is a mixture of sugars transformed into white caramel with toasted almonds, its texture is crunchy and hard and the almonds are whole,” says Ana Picó Filliol, Commercial Director of Turrones Picó. “That of Jijona is soft, its appearance is very different because it is brown and all the almonds are crushed and homogenized with their fat and the caramel sugars,” she says.
The same recipe for five centuries
The varieties of Spanish almonds stand out for their quality: thanks to their high oil content, they are tender and juicy and have an intense flavor. Their star is the local Marcona variety, with its hard shell and flattened shape, which is considered one of the best in the world.
Honey is another essential ingredient in the recipe. Spain is the leading producer in the European Union with its 320 types of honey, including rosemary, thyme and orange blossom.
The turrón, an illustration of the influence of Arab cuisine in Spanish gastronomy, has been produced in Jijona according to the same recipe and the same quality criteria for five centuries.
Turrón makes its appearance in savory dishes
When we say turrón, we immediately think of sweets. But today, chefs are incorporating it into new recipes, taking some risks despite everything.
Thus, in the restaurant they opened 21 years ago in Jijona, Amelia and her sister Ema like to play with the versatility of turrón flavors, to the delight of their customers.
“People who come from abroad are particularly surprised to find turrón in savory dishes,” points out Ema Ripoll, owner and chef of the restaurant L’Entrepà. “This is how we differentiate ourselves by offering turrón all year round and in savory dishes,” she points out.
His sister Amelia gives us their most creative recipes with turrón. “In addition to the creamy rice which is made with beef cheeks and turrón de Jijona, we have the “sphere” which is a croquette of turrón, the “pastisset” which is a fritter of cod with a small piece of turrón with yellow egg in the middle,” she lists before adding: “The turrón is a product that can be used in desserts, salads, stews…”
Toledo marzipan: an exceptional product
Marzipan is another of the typical Spanish sweets brought up to date. In Castile-La Mancha, homeland of this speciality, it is specifically protected by the PGI “Mazapán de Toledo”.
Almonds are again the main ingredient. But this marzipan has its peculiarities. “Toledo marzipan is made with 100% sweet almonds,” says Ana de Mesa Gárate, production manager of Santo Tomé. “This is the first difference: in Germany, Italy, France, sweet almonds are mixed with bitter almonds,” she points out.
“The second difference is that it’s baked at a very high temperature, but for a very short time and what we also do is we bake it on wooden planks, so the upper part receives all the heat, but the lower part remains cool, raw,” she indicates.
From opening the bag of almonds to tasting the cooked marzipan, it takes three days. In the meantime, the manufacturing process is not always obvious, as is the case during the last stage of the dressing of the “delicia”, the cream of candied egg yolk which comes on top of the marzipan.
Its ingredients, rooted in the Mediterranean diet, make it a healthy and high-energy food, a good complement to an active lifestyle. But it is above all, a little gustatory pleasure, to be enjoyed at Christmas or on any other occasion.
